New dyno numbers

[Mike C]

I thought I'd give people an update on where I'm at:

Background: I have been battling a number of issues. The two major ones are slow ass spool up and very high intake temps. Tym and I decided to build a bigger FMIC that is a good bit bigger than the last one. I installed it this week and went up there to dyno.

On the first couple pulls, the clutch was slipping. I really didn't know why since it hasn't shown any signs of doing it on the track? A few weeks ago, I got really pissed at my 2 year lack of disengagement and extended my master cylinder rod almost all the way out. The car then shifted and got down the track. I was happy that at least it went a semi-respectable 11.09. Tym looked through his access hole in the tranny and saw though that the TOB was resting up against the PP and there is no free play in the pedal. He really thinks that the clutch has been slipping a little this whole time. I don't completely buy it because my log's vehicle speed don't show anything unusual. I guess its possible that there's been a constant slip so it wouldn't skew the speed line on a graph but I don't know? The MPH is going away somewhere though.

So we adjusted the pedal back. Sure enough the tranny doesn't shift now but we repulled it and the clutch held fine. I will need to just fine tune the rod at the track and make a subtle adjustment in between each pass until I can get the clutch to disengage. Whatever. Stupid thing.

After that, we started leaning on the car to make peak power. It ended up making 647awhp and 479ft/lbs. We then began playing with things during spoolup and I'm now getting the turbo to spool over 1000rpm sooner than before! This should make a huge difference. However, the intake temps with the new FMIC were still basically the same. I do think I know what the problem is now though.........

I can't pressure test my current system (or last year's system for that fact) without any coupler blowing off after around 15-18PSI. Last year, when Buschur did my FMIC, they installed the Tial BOV. There never was any talk back then of using any stiffer spriing so I am fairly certain that the stock "street" spring is in there. Its a stiff valve to begin with but I can almost guarantee that that spring is blowing wide open at 25PSI let alone the 35PSI I'm trying to run. A huge boost leak could certainly add up to the intake temps being so high.

Tomorrow, I need to take apart the BOV and see what is in there but I think I already know the answer. I would suspect the HP to pick up a good bit and probably pull almost to redline (right now its falling to around 600hp at 9k).

That's the update. I still have alot of things to work out but we made some significant progress today. Hopefully, I'll get a lot of runs in at Neofest and I can get the clutch situation straighted out. Hmmm, if only I knew a small, little, Asian guy who could crawl under there and adjust the rod......................:eek

[OWNDJOO]

nice mike, real nice. you'll be in the 10's in no time at all. keep it up.

[6blt4g63]

yes very nice.i cant imagine that kick in the ass when she spools.i see it being in the 10s when you get the intake temp problem fixed.

[Scot]

Nice. I thought you were going with a multi disc? I loved mine and think you would too.

[emagdnim]

I think it's safe to say that this car deserve's the Columbus DSM's MVP of the year award.

Oh how the times have changed here.

We all love it Mike, keep the new's coming.

[Gunner]

I think you need to stop grasping at straws. Once again, I think you're on a wild goose chase. Think about it dude. The Tial has arguably the best diaphragm on the market, and when you have boost pressure equalized on both sides of the valve, you're not just going to blow it open. If there's one oddball factor about your whole setup it's that fancy pants HKS blinged out hairdryer. As late into the season as it is, I think you should concentrate more on getting some seat time and get used to ripping that thing down the track instead of wasting time throwing attention to things that aren't a problem in the first place.

I'm glad you figured out the spool up issue, what did you guys end up doing to spin that thing up so much earlier?

[Mike C]

Originally posted by Gunner
I think you need to stop grasping at straws. Once again, I think you're on a wild goose chase. Think about it dude. The Tial has arguably the best diaphragm on the market, and when you have boost pressure equalized on both sides of the valve, you're not just going to blow it open. If there's one oddball factor about your whole setup it's that fancy pants HKS blinged out hairdryer. As late into the season as it is, I think you should concentrate more on getting some seat time and get used to ripping that thing down the track instead of wasting time throwing attention to things that aren't a problem in the first place.

I'm glad you figured out the spool up issue, what did you guys end up doing to spin that thing up so much earlier?

Regarding "seat time". I'm racing my car every opportunity my personal schedule has permitted. Believe it or not, its made 24 passes this year down the track.

Regarding "grasping for straws". Sorry, but I'm obsessed with detail. If something isn't right, I want to fix it. Dorking around with minute deatils has nothing to do with how many opportunities I have to take the car to a dragstrip to work on my driving.

I don't think there is anything wrong with the turbo. If you take the anti surge shroud off the cover, its the same T67 wheel in the same Garett cover (nothing special). The "blinged out hairdryer still made 647awhp" I have troubleshot everything and the high IATs clearly point to a boost leak. I have one other leak where my Ford TPS bolts onto the Accufab TB. Unfortunately, there's no other way to fix this leak than to JB Weld the bitch on there. Fuck it, I'm doing it tonight.

The spring that is in my Tial is definately suspect. The length of the spring does NOT match any of the published lengths of the 3 varieties. Also, I can compress the BOV together by hand. I find it hard to believe that it should be that easy. I've had to use a vice to compress a Greddy Type S in the past. Also, when together, I can push and open the valve with my thumb if I press hard enough. That can be hard to do with some 1g BOVs. I think it isn't right.

Obviously, the car still is making a ton of power with these issues. The nerd in me always wonders what it would make with IATs 50 degrees colder though. Sorry, that's just the way I roll yo!@#!@#!%#@~

[Mike C]

Mad spool

[99blownyellowgt]

Nice #'s I wish my car could do 35psi that would be sick.

[turbomark]

Your clutch issues sound exactly like mine did last season. I was also adjusting everything last year and going between a state of not disengaging and not engaging fully. It took a while to get it right but when it worked it was night and day.

good work on the dyno numbers though. What gas was this on, was this on import or c16?

[Mike C]

Originally posted by turbomark

good work on the dyno numbers though. What gas was this on, was this on import or c16?

Torco 118NOS. The same stuff I was using last year.

[Scot]

Thats girl fuel, you need something like..........................................Meth anol. :D

[Mike C]

Originally posted by Scot
Thats girl fuel, you need something like..........................................Meth anol. :D

Ha, for the money it can't be beat. I've found a place in Circleville selling 55 gallon drums for $405. Its cheaper than C16 and I'm convinced you can make more power with it. I still don't think I'm pushing the motor at all as I'm seeing hardly any knock.

BTW Scot regarding the clutch. I ran out of $$$ and decided to try another 2900/street disc setup. We'll see.

[Scot]

I used to run Torqo and had GREAT success with it. As for the clutch, keep saving. :beer

[coltboostin]

Nice dyno numbers. Glad to hear you are more pleased this year than with last years set up.

As for the Tail leaving, only seen it happen once, and the one time the diaphram was ripped BC the owner took it apart to check it out, for no reason mind you. The spring in mine is cut down 3 coils, so I can garuntee it is softer than whay your running, and it held 30PSI with no issue. Another thing is, if you thought it was leaking, why not stick your hand over it while doing as dyno pull?

Good luck on the clutch modding. Will you be at the shootout?

[Mike C]

Originally posted by coltboostin
Nice dyno numbers. Glad to hear you are more pleased this year than with last years set up.

As for the Tail leaving, only seen it happen once, and the one time the diaphram was ripped BC the owner took it apart to check it out, for no reason mind you. The spring in mine is cut down 3 coils, so I can garuntee it is softer than whay your running, and it held 30PSI with no issue. Another thing is, if you thought it was leaking, why not stick your hand over it while doing as dyno pull?

Good luck on the clutch modding. Will you be at the shootout?

How do you know it wasn't leaking. Did you boost leak test it? One thing to realize on your setup (or any big setup) is that the compressor wheel can be very capable of keeping up with a decent boost leak. This means that the boost pressure may not drop off but the compressor wheel is spinning that much faster (higher temps) to maintain the same pressure.

I didn't put my hand over it during a pull because Tym wouldn't let me. Its crazy loud and tight in the passengers side, front corner over there. If something weird would happen, it wouldn't be easy to get out of there.

Yes, I plan on running at the shootout as long as I don't break it this Saturday at Neofest.

[criitter7]

i can definatly not press thee valve in on my tial...maybe im just weak:idunno

[obie]

Mike c- Great job on your new numbers! I hope you can get it all sorted out and run some sick times this year. Oh, and if you decide you need the blue bottle- let me know- :)

[Iwishiwascool]

Originally posted by obie
Mike c- Great job on your new numbers! I hope you can get it all sorted out and run some sick times this year. Oh, and if you decide you need the blue bottle- let me know- :)

He has one already... one of the big ones.

[coltboostin]

Yes, I had it up to 23-24psi on my boost gauge befor the tester violently shot off the turbo. Only thing that was pissy were the injector seals. I cut off the cois because the Tail is SO tight stock it does not open with less than 8-10psi at all. That is good for Big turbo Supra scarry F&F surge shoshoshosohwohowhww noises, but not for a turbo's thrust bearing.

[Mike C]

My turbo has never surged the least nor has my BOV ever made a f&f noise. All the more reason why I think its not right:) I think that I successfully built a new boost leak tester that will allow me to test at high pressure. I'll post what I find tonight once some JB Weld sets:eek

[coltboostin]

Good luck with it. Hey, what was leaking on your accufab, bc I have a ford mustang I m going ot run, similar design, and want to knwo af any issues to look for.

[Mike C]

Originally posted by coltboostin
Good luck with it. Hey, what was leaking on your accufab, bc I have a ford mustang I m going ot run, similar design, and want to knwo af any issues to look for.

The Ford TPS leaks where it bolts onto the Accufab. There's only an O ring in there but in leaks around the edges pretty good. The gap in there was too big for RTV. This should do the trick but doesn't exactly look pretty.:)

[99blownyellowgt]

So you are you using a ford throttlebody. Interesting!:)
What size is it?

[Mike C]

Originally posted by T76 GT
So you are you using a ford throttlebody. Interesting!:)
What size is it?

It's an Accufab throttle body (75mm).

[Shearer]

We cut the 7psi springs for all the turbo bike junk. They hold 40psi just fine. If a Tial valve is leaking you will know it, there won't be any guessing about it.

[Mike C]

With the new tester, I was able to get it to 25PSI before it would pop off. The Tial did not open at that point. That's as good as its gonn aget and I'm not going to worry about it for now. The TPS leak is now gone and I'm happy. I've got some minor things to take care of and then it will be ready to test at Neofest. I need to get this clutch situation straightened out. Hopefully, I won't have to waste too many passes dicking around with it.

[coltboostin]

So, there was no tleak to speak of? Hmm, Gunner's theory is becoming more the reality.

Ford TB's are the MOD, upgrade for 1/4 the price on a DSM unit. And I lost my damn TPS sensor?!?!?!