EvolvedDSM
01-26-2004, 12:56 AM
All you need is:
--One plastic garden/weed sprayer replacement wand (the plastic ones are cheaper, easier to work with and well hidden)--$6 at local hardware/garden supply store.
--One two-way aquarium valve--$2 at pet store.
--Six feet of rubber/silicone tubing--$6 at either/both of the above or auto parts store.
--Four small plastic zip ties--$0 laying around your garage.
--Drill and bits.
First, you need to cut the sprayer wand from 12"-18" down to two or three inches. Attach one end of your tubing and secure with zip tie. Unscrew the tip from the sprayer assembly. You'll need to mount this as far forward in front of the I/C as possible--spraying parallel to the I/C not at it--this will give you a wider spray pattern and allow the sprayer to cool a larger area. The hole should be big enough for the assembly head to fit through, but small enough not to allow the rest of the assembly nor the tip to pass. Pick an appropriate location and drill. I had the I/C shroud removed (don't damage your fins), but it can be done while attached to the car. With the hole drilled you can put the assembly head through the outside of the shroud and screw on the tip as it passes to the inside of the shroud. You should be able to tighten it the whole way (allowing a finer mist) sandwiching the I/C shroud between the sprayer assembly in order to keep it in place. (Reinstall I/C shroud if removed.)
Second, you'll need to tap into the windshield washer line (1G: driver's front corner of engine bay, 2G: passenger's rear corner of engine bay). Cut the WW line and install existing rubber line from WW tank to the "in" port on the aquarium valve (2G: make sure you cut the line so that hood can move up and down w/o catching the valve, etc...) and secure with zip tie. Attach the remaining stock line (going to hood nozzles) to one of the two ports and secure with zip tie. Route the tubing from the I/C sprayer to the valve, trim if necessary, install on remaining port and secure with zip tie.
Finally, unplug the wipers (1G: left of batt on firewall, 2G: right of batt on firewall) and adjust the aquarium valve so that the water is diverted to the I/C. Now go get a friend, have them turn the key to "ON" and pull on the wiper stalk like you would to clean the windshield. You should see a nice steady mist inside your I/C shroud.
A few notes:
--You don't have to use straight water. Mix in some WW fluid (or the forementioned alcohol--I haven't tried this yet). Using the mixture will allow you to place the fluid in the freezer overnight before those big events without turning it to a solid and keeping it as cold as possible.
--When drag racing: keep the stalk on the "Off" position and drive with
your left hand on the right side of the wheel. This will allow you to keep your right hand on the shifter and your left hand on the wheel keeping you straight and pulling on the sprayer. **I urge everyone to practice this before you do it on the track. I do this on my AWD all the time, but the FWD is a different story (wheel slip, torque steer, etc...). Practice this by yourself in a vacant parking lot or something before you try this around other people. BE SAFE!** If you are not comfortable with this procedure read on.
--When auto-xing/road racing: move the stalk to the "High" setting. This will allow minimum distance between your shifter and the I/C sprayer and allow your hands to be in their "normal" positions.
--For you FMIC people: you can T in additional sprayers in order to provide enough coverage for the whole I/C. You will notice a pressure drop (i.e. not as fine of a mist) for each sprayer you add. I have two on my SMIC and still get pretty fine water droplets (I know it's overkill with the T-25).
--Instead of an aquarium valve I use a medical IV stopcock. This allows me easier adjustment and all I have to do is look at it and see which way the water is flowing--no guess work, (Even though whether or not your wipers or plugged in should serve as an indication as to where the flow is headed.)
--There are switches, etc... you can wire in to come on with the boost, at certain RPM's, at WOT, blah blah blah, but this is meant to be straightforward and inexpensive. Besides, if it doesn't help you, you've only spent about $15 and an hour of your time.
--One plastic garden/weed sprayer replacement wand (the plastic ones are cheaper, easier to work with and well hidden)--$6 at local hardware/garden supply store.
--One two-way aquarium valve--$2 at pet store.
--Six feet of rubber/silicone tubing--$6 at either/both of the above or auto parts store.
--Four small plastic zip ties--$0 laying around your garage.
--Drill and bits.
First, you need to cut the sprayer wand from 12"-18" down to two or three inches. Attach one end of your tubing and secure with zip tie. Unscrew the tip from the sprayer assembly. You'll need to mount this as far forward in front of the I/C as possible--spraying parallel to the I/C not at it--this will give you a wider spray pattern and allow the sprayer to cool a larger area. The hole should be big enough for the assembly head to fit through, but small enough not to allow the rest of the assembly nor the tip to pass. Pick an appropriate location and drill. I had the I/C shroud removed (don't damage your fins), but it can be done while attached to the car. With the hole drilled you can put the assembly head through the outside of the shroud and screw on the tip as it passes to the inside of the shroud. You should be able to tighten it the whole way (allowing a finer mist) sandwiching the I/C shroud between the sprayer assembly in order to keep it in place. (Reinstall I/C shroud if removed.)
Second, you'll need to tap into the windshield washer line (1G: driver's front corner of engine bay, 2G: passenger's rear corner of engine bay). Cut the WW line and install existing rubber line from WW tank to the "in" port on the aquarium valve (2G: make sure you cut the line so that hood can move up and down w/o catching the valve, etc...) and secure with zip tie. Attach the remaining stock line (going to hood nozzles) to one of the two ports and secure with zip tie. Route the tubing from the I/C sprayer to the valve, trim if necessary, install on remaining port and secure with zip tie.
Finally, unplug the wipers (1G: left of batt on firewall, 2G: right of batt on firewall) and adjust the aquarium valve so that the water is diverted to the I/C. Now go get a friend, have them turn the key to "ON" and pull on the wiper stalk like you would to clean the windshield. You should see a nice steady mist inside your I/C shroud.
A few notes:
--You don't have to use straight water. Mix in some WW fluid (or the forementioned alcohol--I haven't tried this yet). Using the mixture will allow you to place the fluid in the freezer overnight before those big events without turning it to a solid and keeping it as cold as possible.
--When drag racing: keep the stalk on the "Off" position and drive with
your left hand on the right side of the wheel. This will allow you to keep your right hand on the shifter and your left hand on the wheel keeping you straight and pulling on the sprayer. **I urge everyone to practice this before you do it on the track. I do this on my AWD all the time, but the FWD is a different story (wheel slip, torque steer, etc...). Practice this by yourself in a vacant parking lot or something before you try this around other people. BE SAFE!** If you are not comfortable with this procedure read on.
--When auto-xing/road racing: move the stalk to the "High" setting. This will allow minimum distance between your shifter and the I/C sprayer and allow your hands to be in their "normal" positions.
--For you FMIC people: you can T in additional sprayers in order to provide enough coverage for the whole I/C. You will notice a pressure drop (i.e. not as fine of a mist) for each sprayer you add. I have two on my SMIC and still get pretty fine water droplets (I know it's overkill with the T-25).
--Instead of an aquarium valve I use a medical IV stopcock. This allows me easier adjustment and all I have to do is look at it and see which way the water is flowing--no guess work, (Even though whether or not your wipers or plugged in should serve as an indication as to where the flow is headed.)
--There are switches, etc... you can wire in to come on with the boost, at certain RPM's, at WOT, blah blah blah, but this is meant to be straightforward and inexpensive. Besides, if it doesn't help you, you've only spent about $15 and an hour of your time.