EvolvedDSM
02-23-2004, 10:57 AM
After raising the vehicle using ramps, jack or lift, make sure it is secure and level. The pictures are from the manual, but not all models may be indicated--similarities should exist. For AWD vehicles, transfer case and rear differential fluid changes can be found here (http://www.columbusdsm.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4585). The following is adapted from Amsoil's (http://www.amsoil.com)website:
EASY STEPS IN CHANGING TRANSMISSION FLUID AND FILTER
Click here for original PDF version (8k) (http://www.amsoil.com/lit/EASY%20STEPS%20IN%20CHANGING%20ATF%20FLUID2.pdf)
1. Make sure the fluid is warm. Warm up the car so the transmission is at normal operating temperature. Pull the transmission dipstick which is usually found close to radiator and has a white handle. Fresh fluid is translucent and cherry red. Some darkening is normal, but if it is reddish brown or mustard color and smells like burnt varnish, it is worn out.
2. Select the correct filter replacement and prepare a large pan to catch the fluid. Drain the fluid by first removing the drain plugs (not on 420A) and then loosening the pan bolts. Then loosen each pan bolt a turn or two and loosen one corner more than rest. Drain mostly from this corner. (1G at the top, 2Gs beneath):
http://www.columbusdsm.com/forum/files/autopan.jpg
3. Finish removing the pan and any gasket material from the pan or case. Avoid scratching the metal and make sure the pan?s gasket surface isn?t bent or distorted.
4. Remove the old filter that is attached with four bolts. Be careful to include O-Rings or other seals.
http://www.columbusdsm.com/forum/files/autofilter.jpg
5. Install a new filter. Some filters include new bolts that may differ in size from the originals--tighten to 5 ft-lbs. Be sure O-Rings, etc. are in place.
6. Clean the pan and magnets thoroughly. Inspect the pan before cleaning. A small amount of fine grey clutch dust is normal. However, if you find metal shavings, there has been transmission damage. Clean the pan and magnets with solvent and wipe dry so there is no harmful residue.
7. Position gasket on pan. Some gaskets have four holes slightly smaller than the rest to allow four bolts through the pan and through these smaller holes to hold the gasket in place. Sealant may be used instead of/in addition to gasket.
8. Hand tighten pan bolts in a criss-cross pattern. After that, use a torque wrench to tighten bolts to 8 ft-lbs. Replace drain plug(s)/crush washer(s) and tighten to 29 ft-lbs for 4G64, 24 ft-lbs for all others.
9. Refill the transmission with approximately 4qts of the ATF of your choice.
10. If doing only a partial fluid replacement, skip to instruction 12 below. If doing a complete fluid replacement, follow the steps in instruction 11.
11. You now have replaced the fluid in the pan. To replace the fluid in the torque converter and oil cooler also, follow these steps.
Step 1. Obtain the total system capacity of the vehicle [4G37=6.4qts, 1G 4G63=7.4qts, 420A=9.1qts, 2G 4G63=6.4qts, 4G64=7.1qts]. Have this amount readily available.
Step 2. Disconnect the oil cooler line from the oil cooler. Turbo and 4G64 models have a separate oil cooler while all other NT models will be integrated into the radiator. As you may not know which is the pressure side and which is the return side, have both directed so the stream of fluid will be directed toward a receptacle. (1Gs top, 2Gs bottom):
http://www.columbusdsm.com/forum/files/autocooler.jpg
Step 3. With another person, be prepared to add ATF to the fill area as it is being pumped out of the oil cooler line.
Step 4. Start the engine, and as the old fluid is pumped out, add fresh fluid to the pan.
Step 5. When either the fluid color brightens or the total capacity has been replaced (remember you've already started with 4 fresh quarts), shut the engine off and re-attach the oil cooler line. All fluids has now been changed.
12. Recheck the fluid level. With the car on level ground, set the parking brake and the transmission in ?Park? for 420A or ?Neutral? for all others. Let the engine idle for a few minutes. Shift the transmission into different positions before returning the lever to ?Park? for 420A or ?Neutral? for all others. Check the fluid level again and check for leaks.
EASY STEPS IN CHANGING TRANSMISSION FLUID AND FILTER
Click here for original PDF version (8k) (http://www.amsoil.com/lit/EASY%20STEPS%20IN%20CHANGING%20ATF%20FLUID2.pdf)
1. Make sure the fluid is warm. Warm up the car so the transmission is at normal operating temperature. Pull the transmission dipstick which is usually found close to radiator and has a white handle. Fresh fluid is translucent and cherry red. Some darkening is normal, but if it is reddish brown or mustard color and smells like burnt varnish, it is worn out.
2. Select the correct filter replacement and prepare a large pan to catch the fluid. Drain the fluid by first removing the drain plugs (not on 420A) and then loosening the pan bolts. Then loosen each pan bolt a turn or two and loosen one corner more than rest. Drain mostly from this corner. (1G at the top, 2Gs beneath):
http://www.columbusdsm.com/forum/files/autopan.jpg
3. Finish removing the pan and any gasket material from the pan or case. Avoid scratching the metal and make sure the pan?s gasket surface isn?t bent or distorted.
4. Remove the old filter that is attached with four bolts. Be careful to include O-Rings or other seals.
http://www.columbusdsm.com/forum/files/autofilter.jpg
5. Install a new filter. Some filters include new bolts that may differ in size from the originals--tighten to 5 ft-lbs. Be sure O-Rings, etc. are in place.
6. Clean the pan and magnets thoroughly. Inspect the pan before cleaning. A small amount of fine grey clutch dust is normal. However, if you find metal shavings, there has been transmission damage. Clean the pan and magnets with solvent and wipe dry so there is no harmful residue.
7. Position gasket on pan. Some gaskets have four holes slightly smaller than the rest to allow four bolts through the pan and through these smaller holes to hold the gasket in place. Sealant may be used instead of/in addition to gasket.
8. Hand tighten pan bolts in a criss-cross pattern. After that, use a torque wrench to tighten bolts to 8 ft-lbs. Replace drain plug(s)/crush washer(s) and tighten to 29 ft-lbs for 4G64, 24 ft-lbs for all others.
9. Refill the transmission with approximately 4qts of the ATF of your choice.
10. If doing only a partial fluid replacement, skip to instruction 12 below. If doing a complete fluid replacement, follow the steps in instruction 11.
11. You now have replaced the fluid in the pan. To replace the fluid in the torque converter and oil cooler also, follow these steps.
Step 1. Obtain the total system capacity of the vehicle [4G37=6.4qts, 1G 4G63=7.4qts, 420A=9.1qts, 2G 4G63=6.4qts, 4G64=7.1qts]. Have this amount readily available.
Step 2. Disconnect the oil cooler line from the oil cooler. Turbo and 4G64 models have a separate oil cooler while all other NT models will be integrated into the radiator. As you may not know which is the pressure side and which is the return side, have both directed so the stream of fluid will be directed toward a receptacle. (1Gs top, 2Gs bottom):
http://www.columbusdsm.com/forum/files/autocooler.jpg
Step 3. With another person, be prepared to add ATF to the fill area as it is being pumped out of the oil cooler line.
Step 4. Start the engine, and as the old fluid is pumped out, add fresh fluid to the pan.
Step 5. When either the fluid color brightens or the total capacity has been replaced (remember you've already started with 4 fresh quarts), shut the engine off and re-attach the oil cooler line. All fluids has now been changed.
12. Recheck the fluid level. With the car on level ground, set the parking brake and the transmission in ?Park? for 420A or ?Neutral? for all others. Let the engine idle for a few minutes. Shift the transmission into different positions before returning the lever to ?Park? for 420A or ?Neutral? for all others. Check the fluid level again and check for leaks.