whats goin on now...

[dsmarc]

whenever i hit so many RPM when gettin on it a bit usually between 3500-4500 once i get in that range my meter just shoots up to almost redline and its like im in neutreul

is this my clutch going bad or what?

[IAmSlow]

Yes, your clutch is slipping. Sounds like once you hit boost, the clutch can't hold it any longer. Do you usually ride the clutch ? I talked to Jeremy and he said that crankwalk can be caused by riding the clutch and holding the clutch pedal down whenever the car is stopped (worsened by holding the pedal down while the car is coasting down).

[dsmarc]

jermey...who...

anyway no i never used the clutch unless i HAD to
like you said such as stop lights i would coast out of gear off the clutch

so its my clutch i need to buy now huh?

[dsmarc]

guys i really need help on a idea i need my doors to open and close lol..

and remember i cant get my door open to work on the insides

[biglipps66]

Dude just stop driving that car till you get a motor lol

I found you one too.. a complete motor.. PM me :D

[BlackEclipse]

Am I the only one that thinks this discussion is getting pathetic? Getting the door apart does not require instructions or special skills. Basic tools required unless you plan on removing the latch from the door then you need a torx bit. I thought it was kind of obvious when I did mine - sort of like when I tore my engine apart last winter. I kind of understand your hesitation for venturing into unknown territory on your car. I was scared to touch anything on my car at one time.

If you really need them, there are instructions on www.dsmtalk.com at the bottom of the first page about fixing electric door locks and it shows how to tear the door apart. Make sure you have latex/nitrile gloves on when removing the clear plastic. The black gooey stuff that holds it on is NASTY. You will need Mineral Spirits to remove it from your skin and anything else it touches.

If I didn't already have a BUSTED ASS DSM sitting in my garage, I would invite you to come over and I would take apart your door for you.

[BlackEclipse]

Stuff that I posted in the Members section a while ago:


2G electric door lock repair

I've repaired both sides on my car. Here is some info for you people.

Tools needed:

1) bench mounted vice - to hold electric motor when you remove the top off of it.

2) hammer

3) set of precision screwdrivers - A tiny flat blade to bend the clips on the top of the electric motor - you'll need to use a hammer when you are doing this. A phillips screwdriver for opening the white plastic gear housing - probably either the largest phillips one in the prerecision set or maybe just a small regular phillips screwdriver.

4) 10mm Gearwrench or similar to aid in removal of the hard-to-get-to bolt holding the door handle on. Maybe an offest wrench would be better. A socket wrench is too big to get in there unless you have a slimline kind of socket.

5) Can of brake cleaner - for cleaning out the electric motor as well as the door latch assembly

6) white lithium grease to re-grease the plastic gears and linkages after you cleaned them up

7) Torx bit size T-30 to remove the 3 bolts that hold the latch assemly to the inside of the door

8) Dremel tool with a hard rubber buffer to clean the rust off of various linkages.

9) Paper towels

10) Nitrile/latex 2-layer gloves from Harbor Freight to keep your hands clean and to keep from getting the toxic brake cleaner on them AND to help keep the NASTY BLACK TAR STUFF on the clear plastic inner door covering off of you

11) Can of Mineral Spirits to get the black tar off of your person

This is all that I can think of right now.

The HARDEST part of it all is the removal/re-install of the door handle because of that one hard-to-get-at bolt with the phillips head on the top of it.

I don't think the "cleaning" of the inside of the motor really does a lot - but may help. The REAL fix is cleaning up the yellowish-white lubricant off of the metal contact surface underneath all of the white gears. It's underneath that "partial" gear that has pieces of metal attached to it.

Just remember how all the gears were situated when you take the case apart and you will have no problems. Be careful not to break the tiny wires attached to the capacitor/motor and make sure the wires and everything are not in the way when you put the white lid back on. The white lid should go back on easily and rest in place all the way down without hitting anything. If it feels like there is something in the way keeping the lid from going all the way down by itself (without tension) then there is something in the way.

Before you start: MAKE SURE that the window is ALL THE WAY UP.

While you are in there: Fix the damned window rattle problem. See the main page of www.dsmtalk.com

Steps to get you going:

1) roll window all the way up.
2) disconnect battery
3) Remove the 2 screws on the left side
4) Remove the 2 screws on the right side
5) Pull the inside lever and remove the screw behind it.
6) Remove the plastic behind the inside lever
7) pop the little plastic square in the door coin tray and remove the screw underneath it
8) Pop the door panel off - start at the bottom edges of door and pull straight out. Detach the wiring harness from the inside of the door armrest that controls the windows/door locks.
9) Remove the L-shaped armrest bracket (3 phillips screws)
10) Unscrew the inside door lever, detach the 2 rods from it and remove it
11) Unscrew the "inner" 4 screws on the door speaker. Remove the speaker then detach the wires from it.
12) Unscrew the "outer" 4 screws on the door speaker housing to remove it from the door
13) Start at both end of the door and remove the plastic - as you get to the center, feed the wires and rods through the openings.
14) Unbolt that vertical thick bar near the door latch end of the door that holds the glass - it's in the way
15) Detach those 2 long horizontal thin metal "coathanger" rods from the door latch assembly
16) Unlplug the lower hidden electrical plug to the door latch
17) Unscrew one of the screws from the outer door handle - the bolt on the end of the door
18) Unscrew the 3 latch Torx bit bolts from end of door
19) snap out the lock cylinder metal clip
20) Push out a little on the outer door handle and then remove the lock cylinder - detach the metal rod when you can get to it
21) Go to work getting the hard-to-get-at bolt out of there.
22) remove outer door handle and detach the metal rod from it.
23) pull out the latch assembly
24) take apart/clean up/fix the latch assembly
25) re-assemble all in reverse order

[Gunner]

Haha, Mike just :Owned this dude.

[dsmarc]

yea...... too bad i tried all that AND did all that

[dsmarc]

atually no i did not do that my problem is i can not even get the door open
is there a way to get into the door while its closed................... i guess not because you cant get to the screws