Clutch Wasn't Bad

[koritina]

Well, not completly anyway.. :rolleyes It slipped like a mofo though, so who cares..

Anyway, the new clutch is in, everything is good. Take the car out.

Taking off it feels slow. The car just doesn't move, kinda like riding the brakes or riding the clutch. It feels like the clutch is slipping, same as it did before the new clutch went in. I get on it, the car shudders, almost like the wheels are spinning, and then it jumps forward. My next bets are transfer case and rear diff. What are some symptoms of those being bad? The rear is LSD.

[biglipps66]

take off the transfer case and the drive shaft.. take it down the street and see what happens. I wouldnt advise driving too long like that though.

Looking at your old disc.. i told you it had some beef left to it.. :thumb

But.. does the thing roll even :idunno ?? put it on a flat surface and try and push it..

[koritina]

What do you mean "roll even?" Like coasting, does the car stay straight?

What about torn motor mounts? I've noticed on DSM Talk a lot of people saying that the car will shudder or jump under heavy accell and not want to move if there is a torn or "missing" motor mount.

I might take the Xfer case off tomorrow, I don't want to do that today.

[koritina]

Oh, and there is a whirr when I push the gas at slower speeds.

[neco]

Man, sux that it didn't fix your problem. At least you got a new clutch though. Let me know if you need a hand and I'll stop by again.

[Gunner]

Any axles broken?

[neco]

They looked good.

[koritina]

The front half-shafts are good. I'm gonna give them a wiggle tomorrow to check for slop. If they have any, I'm gonna return them and get a free set. The rear ones might be screwed, I haven't looked. I'm gonna drop the drive shaft and xfer case tomorrow. Fill the carrier bearings up with some caulk. Check out the rear end, and take it for a short drive as FWD to see if that affects it. If it does, I have a starting point.

I'm not really disappointed, kind of like the timing belt, I don't really care. The good news is, rather then slipping like it did before, once the shaking goes, and the car moves, it moves quick. Obviously I'm not going to do a pull though until this little issue is cleared up.

Manual steering rack and 4 bolt rear are looking very close right now.

[M 4 L k i 3 R]

Almost sounds like center diff. going out. Putting it under hard acceleration would force it to do what it's supposed to, but it can't. Did you check it when you had the tranny off?

[koritina]

That's the other thing I had thought about. We didn't check it when the tranny was off. Isn't it accessible from the back panel? Any idea on price of those?

[M 4 L k i 3 R]

Gotta take pretty much the whole tranny apart to open up the center diff. then ya get to put it all back together again. I would say check the t-case, front and rear axels first. If those prove nothing, then bite the bullet and check the center diff.

[koritina]

:thumb Sounds good. That was my plan. If that turns out to be the culprit I might be better served to take it to a certain person, since I might as well rebuild the whole thing and not just one part in my busted ass tranny..

[Mike C]

If your center diff isn't welded (which I'm assuming your isn't), then taking out you x-case and drivesahft and driving in front wheel drive is not a good idea. I think that will destroy your center diff if it isn't broken. Tranny gurus correct me if I'm wrong.

[M 4 L k i 3 R]

I'm thinking either the center diff or vc will go if you try to do that.

[koritina]

Then how am I supposed to eliminate any of the possible broken things? It wouldn't hurt it to drive say 1/2 mile on it, would it? How has any of the AWD peeps here got Dyno time at FFI, drop the driveshaft, at least that's what I've heard, and that's a lot harder driving then I will be doing for 1/2 mile.

I'm still dropping the driveshaft and xfer to fill in the carrier bearings, if they turn out to be sloppy.

[Gunner]

It's not going to hurt to take it around the block once, or up the street a bit. Just don't fly around or drive for a while as your center diff will no longer function.

All those AWD's who've dyno'd at FFI have used a VCE in their tranny in place of the viscous coupler. If your t-case was defunct the symptoms would not be much like clutch slippage. You'd be FWD and there would certainly be a metallic cacaphony blaring from the transfer case. If your center diff was pooped you'd be RWD. A broken axle on any one corner will feel like clutch slippage, as will a broken rear end.

[koritina]

Just pulled the right rear half shaft.

I went out, looked under the back end, didn't see anything hanging down, so I jacked it up. Once I crawled under it I noticed that the right rear half shaft wasn't IN the rear diff. So, I am assuming that this could create the exact same effect as a "broken" one because in esscence it was "broken" in that it wasn't there. The end was still inside the diff, so no fluid leaked out, but it wasn't locked in all the way. It was sticking about an inch out of the rear diff. So I'm going to put it back in the rear diff and try this again.

Does this sound like it could be the problem? (I hope)

[koritina]

Just took the car out. Put the rear axle back in place and drove it. Works just fine now. No vibrations, no noises, and power. However, I think I broke the turbo.. :confused It started making awful whirring noises (NOT spoolup sound) while spooling. Oh well, at least the 6 puck is in, works great.

Thanks to everyone for ideas, help, parts, and thanks Alex for driving down here to help put the tranny in. :thumb