View Full Version : valve ticks/knocks
Extreme GS
12-09-2003, 09:51 PM
Ladies and Gents, I finally got my car running after 4 weekends of headgasket, timing belt, alt. & p/s belt replacement :o I'm not sure if I have a problem, but after that job, I can hear fairly audible "ticking" sounds. I could hear the valve ticks (I believe) and JE piston slaps before (especially when the engine is cold), but this time it sounds twice as loud. Did I possibly screw something up when I put the cams and roller rockers back together? The timing is set correctly, so I don't think it's hitting the pistons. Any opinions???
jplong
12-09-2003, 09:53 PM
how long did you let thte engine run?
Extreme GS
12-09-2003, 11:17 PM
I let the engine run for about 5 minutes, but the engine doesn't reach normal operation temperature until I drive the car around for a few minutes--which is probably due to the bigger radiator, water wetter, and 160 degree thermosstat. Even after the car has been driven for 10-15 minutes, the ticking sound is still there, but not as bad as when the engine is cold--still pretty noticeable though.
Iwishiwascool
12-09-2003, 11:43 PM
its probably your lifters. If you cleaned them, or if they sat long enough... it will take a lil bit for them to get lubed again.
Depending on how deep the tone is you should be able to tell.
Tapping bad ticking.... probably ok, unless it continues
v8etr
12-10-2003, 02:01 AM
Did you bleed down the lifters before re-installing them?
Gunner
12-10-2003, 10:45 AM
I was thinking the same thing.
BlackEclipse
12-10-2003, 11:32 AM
I bled my new lifters before installing them. Then they were loud as hell until the car warmed up. They didn't get quiet until I actually drove around a bit. Now, I never hear them at all.
My jetta has weird days where the lifters will tick REALLY LOUD then other days when they are as quiet as can be. I think if I let my Jetta sit for 3 weeks or more without starting is when you an almost guarantee them to be loud.
BlackEclipse
12-10-2003, 11:36 AM
I think it sounds louder because cold air conducts sound much better than warm air (as in, denser air will transmit sound better). In that amount of time that your car was down, the weather has gotten a bit colder.
MitsubishiGirl
12-10-2003, 12:16 PM
Mike, where is the place you said you can get those upgraded non ticking lifters at? I'm getting very tired of lifter tick... gotta link?
EvolvedDSM
12-10-2003, 12:29 PM
Steve posted this (http://www.columbusdsm.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2907)just a short while ago :thumb
GSXLR8
12-10-2003, 12:42 PM
again...we ought to make a "where to buy what" guide to make everyone's life easier and fixing/modding their car cheaper
MitsubishiGirl
12-10-2003, 12:52 PM
I agree with Steve...
Thanks Jamie :thumb
GSXLR8
12-10-2003, 12:54 PM
like I also said...if people will contribute...I will compile/maintain
Extreme GS
12-10-2003, 10:20 PM
Thanks for the replies :thumb In reference to the lifters, I didn't bleed them. I pretty just took them off, set them aside, then reinstalled them when I put the cams back in. I did the usual wipe down and lube before the installation. Last night, I did notice the "tap, tap" and "tick" sounds got quiter after the engine reached normal temp. Maybe it's the cold (at least I hope that's the reason.)
dewman0012
12-10-2003, 11:04 PM
spark plugs screwed down all the way?
v8etr
12-11-2003, 12:13 AM
Thanks for the replies :thumb In reference to the lifters, I didn't bleed them. I pretty just took them off, set them aside, then reinstalled them when I put the cams back in. I did the usual wipe down and lube before the installation. Last night, I did notice the "tap, tap" and "tick" sounds got quiter after the engine reached normal temp. Maybe it's the cold (at least I hope that's the reason.)
Sometimes if you don't bleed them down, they will stay hard and not self adjust. It can cause valve to piston contact if it is bad enough. Usually this happens if you have a thin gasket and a milled head. I would try to pop them out and bleed them down, then re-install them and go from there. Maybe they got an air bubble caught or something. The other thing you might want to check is that the feed hole on the lifter is facing the oil vein.
Extreme GS
12-11-2003, 10:20 PM
Hmmm, I might check that in early Spring. I won't driving my car much this winter. Removing the timing belt and resetting timing on a 420A is a P.I.T.A., so I don't really look forward to doing it again just yet. Thanks for the tips.
v8etr
12-12-2003, 12:22 PM
Hmmm, I might check that in early Spring. I won't driving my car much this winter. Removing the timing belt and resetting timing on a 420A is a P.I.T.A., so I don't really look forward to doing it again just yet. Thanks for the tips.
It isnt that bad. You can take them out without removing the timing belt or cams. See the following:
Tools required:
-2 long flathead screwdrivers
-Lots of patience and about a few hours of your time
1) Before starting on each valve, make sure the rocker arm is on the base circle of the cam of the cylinder you are working on. In other words, the nose of the cam lobe should be straight up. You can just tap the starter each time to get there; do a few at a time in order in which the lobes are up .
Place the first screwdriver blade against the adjacent head bolt. This will keep the tip of the screwdriver from sliding away from the rocker arm. Really big screwdrivers are the secret to making this job a cinch.
2) Place the tip of the second screwdriver under the lifter end of the rocker arm and push it down against the head casting. This will compress the valve spring and the rocker arm will start to lift up and slide away from the lifter.
3) Use the screwdriver on the right to control the rocker arm side movement and slowly release the left screwdriver until the rocker arm is free from any load.
4) Now you can simply pull out the lifter. Bleed it down and reinstall.
5) Time to slip in the new rocker arm. Simply place the rocker arm on the end valve tip with the opposite end positioned next to the lifter. Again place the tip of a screwdriver against the head bolt and move the rocker arm toward the lifter.
6) use the second screwdriver to lift the rocker arm which compresses the valve spring. Use the first screwdriver to move the rocker arm to the left over the lash adjuster. Slowly release the second screwdriver to lower the rocker arm onto the lifter. Done! Just 15 more and you can head out on the highway...
Good luck. :thumb
jplong
12-12-2003, 12:26 PM
having rebuilt 4 of thses motors, i dont think you can do this on a 420A...
the lifters are too close to the camshafts to allow removal without the camsshafts actually bieng removed first..
v8etr
12-17-2003, 04:00 PM
having rebuilt 4 of thses motors, i dont think you can do this on a 420A...
the lifters are too close to the camshafts to allow removal without the camsshafts actually bieng removed first..
Maybe I just got lucky. I have done it on a few of them for various reasons.
ucsigep
12-17-2003, 04:22 PM
on the 420a? or the 4g motors?
v8etr
12-17-2003, 09:00 PM
on the 420a? or the 4g motors?
Both... I have been working on DSM's since about '94. I have found a few tricks along the way. I am not as good with the 420A but I have done my fair share.
Extreme GS
12-19-2003, 11:23 PM
If this can be done with a 420A, then that would be good. I will try it sometimes. Thanks :thumb
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