Iwishiwascool
02-04-2004, 11:49 PM
Motor Mount Stiffening
Windo Weld is a soft, rubbery polyurethene that closely matches the consistency of the rubber part of the mount, and is a perfect way to fill The gaps of your motor mount inexpensively and effectively. It can be purchased at NAPA for about $13 per tube or Autozone/Advanced for $8.
http://www.columbusdsm.com/forum/files/mt00.jpghttp://www.columbusdsm.com/forum/files/mt01.jpg
Do this in thin layers. It would take about 4-5 days to cure - the outside looks dry, but the inside remains uncured for quite some time. Thin layers of less than 1/4" thick should cure in about 3 hours each. A heat gun speeds up the curing process, but too much heat will cause a volcanic bubbling effect, ruining the job.
http://www.columbusdsm.com/forum/files/mt02.jpghttp://www.columbusdsm.com/forum/files/mt03.jpghttp://www.columbusdsm.com/forum/files/mt08.jpg
Note on vibration: It's very minimal, despite what my digest post may have indicated. I posted that right after a quick test drive, after reconnecting the battery. I thought I gave the ECU enough time to re-learn, but apparently I did not. The vibrations were from the idle revs dropping below normal during that period.
The car simply feels more solid now - the way it should. The movement of the engine is something you don't really notice until it's gone. Wheel hop or not, this is a good modification.
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I did this on my AWD just because my mounts were out. I had 2 ripped mounts that I repaired and continued to fill entirely with the window weld. Where before the motor moved quite a lot during revs, now it is still and solid.
content taken from VFAQ at www.raktron.com/misc/mt.htm
Windo Weld is a soft, rubbery polyurethene that closely matches the consistency of the rubber part of the mount, and is a perfect way to fill The gaps of your motor mount inexpensively and effectively. It can be purchased at NAPA for about $13 per tube or Autozone/Advanced for $8.
http://www.columbusdsm.com/forum/files/mt00.jpghttp://www.columbusdsm.com/forum/files/mt01.jpg
Do this in thin layers. It would take about 4-5 days to cure - the outside looks dry, but the inside remains uncured for quite some time. Thin layers of less than 1/4" thick should cure in about 3 hours each. A heat gun speeds up the curing process, but too much heat will cause a volcanic bubbling effect, ruining the job.
http://www.columbusdsm.com/forum/files/mt02.jpghttp://www.columbusdsm.com/forum/files/mt03.jpghttp://www.columbusdsm.com/forum/files/mt08.jpg
Note on vibration: It's very minimal, despite what my digest post may have indicated. I posted that right after a quick test drive, after reconnecting the battery. I thought I gave the ECU enough time to re-learn, but apparently I did not. The vibrations were from the idle revs dropping below normal during that period.
The car simply feels more solid now - the way it should. The movement of the engine is something you don't really notice until it's gone. Wheel hop or not, this is a good modification.
------
I did this on my AWD just because my mounts were out. I had 2 ripped mounts that I repaired and continued to fill entirely with the window weld. Where before the motor moved quite a lot during revs, now it is still and solid.
content taken from VFAQ at www.raktron.com/misc/mt.htm