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bigPapa
08-02-2003, 04:58 PM
alright i have a 97 gst. Before i spend a lot of money on other items this is one i wanted to get out of the way. What is the best way i eliminate crankwalk. Is it puting a 1g block in or what? Looking for the easiest and best way to rid mayself of this potetial problem. I don't care what i need to do. It is something i think about everytime i push the clucth in. So i want to set my mind at ease and fix the problem.
BlackEclipse
08-02-2003, 05:18 PM
The first thing you do is to STOP sitting on the clutch pedal at lights and stop signs and while you are sitting in stopped traffic on I-270. Yank it out of gear before you come to a stop.

The 2nd thing you need to do is to unplug the clutch pedal switch so you don't have to push in the clutch to start the car. It's the Upper switch at the very top of the pedal arm, not the lower switch. The top switch is usually a small white plug.

You need to get you car measured for crankwalk to see if you: 1) have it or not...and 2) how bad is it. If it wears too far then you have ruined your crank and possibly the block. New cranks are not worth buying becuase they are so expensive. You can pick up a used 1G shortblock for probably less.
BlackEclipse
08-02-2003, 05:20 PM
If your engine is crankwalking but it is salvageable then you might try what I did and that was to yank out the block and have the 2G oil squirters removed and the holes tapped and plugged. Get a new set of main bearings and chamfer the edge of the thrust bearing to draw more oil to the side that gets the most load from the clutch. Then do a balance shaft removal kit.

But you might want to do it a little more faster than I took. My car was down 7 months while I took it apart (and I got to spend some real quality time with my engine parts).
bigPapa
08-02-2003, 08:54 PM
with the removal of the 2G squirts I have heard of having the block machined to accept the 1G style. Also if removal of the sqirter is done all together what do you use to cool the bottom of the piston? Or is temp not as big a problem as was thought in the design process. I just want to know that I have taken the steps needed so I don't have to have my car sitting unexpectantly.
BlackEclipse
08-03-2003, 05:19 PM
The 1G oil squirters (at least the 6-bolt kind), won't fit in the 2G block. I have had a machine shop look at it and just looking at it myself and there is NO WAY those things will fit on the 2G block. There is a huge chunk of metal missing out of the 2G block that is absolutely neccesary for tapping into to make the 1G oil squirters fit in.

I don't know what people are talking about on the Internet about claims that it can be done. I'm saying it cannot be done.

I am over 3,000 miles now on my rebuild. I don't seem to be having any problems.
96talontsi
11-12-2003, 12:43 PM
I've been hearing about this all over the boards, what DSMs are affected and how do you know if it's happened?
Iwishiwascool
11-12-2003, 12:48 PM
your car ticks

then stops.

Mike crankwalked again shortly after that post by the way.


You must save yourself much headache and get a 1g block.

There are a number of us now with this swap. Im on my second 1g block as a matter of fact.
biglipps66
11-12-2003, 12:54 PM
Ya save yourself the headache.. If its walking... swap it out
harry's94tsi
11-12-2003, 02:03 PM
If swapping out the block is a cure all, then why are you on your second block? just curious. oh and i heard if you were one of the lucky ones and mitsu. diagnosed and replaced your crank and bearings under warranty, how would that help any? is it the block that is bad or the stock crank that was bad from the factory? -ryan
biglipps66
11-12-2003, 02:11 PM
hes on his 2nd block due to some other issues.

Seperated crank pulley took out his timing belt.. bent every single valve (broke 2)... believe to have taken out his oil pump causing the balance shafts to sieze and for shit to not get lubed :D

Ground into the crank so much that it was cheaper just to get another block.

Now 1400 some dollars later... He has a fully built bottom AND top end. :thumb
criitter7
11-12-2003, 11:16 PM
i have a 6 bolt...when i put the clutch in i lost a bolt.........instant 6 bolt....wooohooo no walk for me :headbang
MrBlunt
11-13-2003, 01:09 AM
buy a 420a and two extra oil pumps..problem solved
suicidalsquirrel
11-13-2003, 01:13 AM
Buy an Evo
MrBlunt
11-13-2003, 01:15 AM
bah..waste of money :D
dsmarc
11-13-2003, 01:16 AM
i have a 6 bolt...when i put the clutch in i lost a bolt.........instant 6 bolt....wooohooo no walk for me :headbang
YOUR A GENIOUS

no seriously your brilliant :thumb :thumb
Iwishiwascool
11-13-2003, 01:39 AM
hes on his 2nd block due to some other issues.

Seperated crank pulley took out his timing belt.. bent every single valve (broke 2)... believe to have taken out his oil pump causing the balance shafts to sieze and for shit to not get lubed :D

Ground into the crank so much that it was cheaper just to get another block.

Now 1400 some dollars later... He has a fully built bottom AND top end. :thumb

yup

it Was 1400... before we started buying engine paint by the boat load.
96talontsi
11-13-2003, 12:55 PM
Ok, so how difficult is this swap? I'm not a complete novice but a block swap sounds extreme. any way to describe it in simple terms ie don't worry about all the details, just enough to be semi-educated.
Iwishiwascool
11-13-2003, 01:02 PM
-Modify a motor mount
-Modify the wiring to eliminate your crank angle sensor.
-swap the injectors
-put a potentiometer on a wire on the ecu
-fit a bunch of stuff where it wasnt meant to fit

Lipps did his in a day.
ucsigep
11-13-2003, 01:05 PM
a day just putting the motor in, that doesn't include pulling the old motor and everything else. Trust me, that car was in my garage for a week, while my car sat outside not running and I was driving my parents car.

Don't say I never gave up anything for you, Lipps. :)
biglipps66
11-13-2003, 01:07 PM
a FULL day yup... but little time spread out here and there :D

Yes.. Jeff.. you deffinately saved my ASS on that one. :thumb :thumb
Iwishiwascool
11-13-2003, 01:09 PM
yeah i should have said that the install alone takes a day.
BlackEclipse
11-13-2003, 01:56 PM
but lipps kept his 6-bolt block essentially completely stock with the 7.8:1 compression and all the old seals/gaskets whether or not they were leaking oil from age.

On old 6-bolt motors (or old motors in general) you really should take it apart and replace the seals/gaskets/bearings and get rid of the balance shafts.
biglipps66
11-13-2003, 01:57 PM
I would have yes.. but didnt really have all the time to do so.

Compression still reads 160s across and doesnt have issues though. Slight oil leak from the pan though :confused
dsmarc
11-14-2003, 02:27 AM
not quite where this sublect lead too didnt read any of it, but the true elimination is denial as some people like to say i have :thumb
harry's94tsi
11-14-2003, 02:36 AM
iwishiwascool>>>
yup

it Was 1400... before we started buying engine paint by the boat load.


So was any of that engine paint used to paint the crank or the pistons? i hear you can gain like 30 horsepower from that, i mean its totally worth it if you already have the engine out and everything....right? -ryan
BlackEclipse
11-14-2003, 10:29 AM
The red crank paint came from leftover paint that I used to paint my engine block earlier this year so that did not cost Ken any more money on that.
BlackEclipse
11-14-2003, 10:39 AM
Is this a bad sign:

When I push my clutch in...there is a clunk that can be felt and heard from the engine.
96talontsi
11-14-2003, 12:13 PM
So total budget for the swap is 1400 or is that just for a block, I'm a real newbie and to be honest this is kinda depressing. We had a 1g laying around for a while, but it wasn't turbo, if that matters.
biglipps66
11-14-2003, 12:14 PM
You can find a complete motor for 500-1000 dollars.

Youde need a flywheel and some other parts blah blah.

My entire swap was $1300 total.
Iwishiwascool
11-14-2003, 12:24 PM
no,

my $1400 motor is completely built with forged internals. I doubt this is what you are looking to do.
96talontsi
11-16-2003, 09:21 PM
If I'm going to or get my g/f to spend more than a grand on a motor it's going to be built right. this will be a bit in the future so right now I'm formulating a battle plan. I want a noticeably quicker than stock but reliable and streetable play toy.
Iwishiwascool
11-16-2003, 10:31 PM
see "building a motor basics"

Youre not going to get much power by building the motor alone. I suppose if you raise the compression, remove the balance shafts, switch to an underdrive pully.... and if your old motor was a wreck, then you might notice a substantial difference.

Otherwise you need to look elsewhere for power.
96talontsi
11-17-2003, 11:49 AM
i realize, that a motor only build-up won't do much, but it will keep me from having to rip into it later when mods get put on. I'm looking to build a solid foundation with the motor, not the whole house.